The rapid pace of time surprises us to the point that we never know whether we really are aware of what is currently happening.

Today somebody defines fusion cooking, some minutes later, the whole world can find out its definition… but to cook that way is a very different story.

Is there a better example of fusion cooking than the food in Bahia? In the sixteenth century the Portuguese, with the African slaves they brought with them, mixed with the indigenous people and taught them their art of cooking using the new products available.

There has been an increase of fast food places which serve quick and cheap meals to facilitate the accelerated rhythm of life today.

With a simple phone call one can order meals to be delivered at home.

The variety of places and food options also led to more concern with health and above-all food hygiene.

However, what is the trend in this sector? What additional concerns should the entrepreneurs have with all this progress?

We do not want to create guilt symptoms like Vatel during the reign of King Louis X1V, nor the anxiety of the references of Grimod de la Reynière in his Almanac, in the tenth century. He was the first real gastronomic critic. We also do not want to reach the point of despair of Chef Bernard Loiseau whose suicide is believed to be associated with the possibility of losing a star on the Michelin Guide.

Much is said and discussed about the creativity and progress (or evolution) in the Culinary Art. On the other hand, the fashion element, and the copying (sometimes with a bad outcome), end up by destroying true progress in the Cooking world.

So, what is fundamental for a restaurant to be successful? Let us begin with the investor. He must either understand the Art or be able to find someone who does. In order to successfully manage a kitchen it is not enough to think that you know how to eat well. You have to know how to cook with quality, to the satisfaction of the clients and also make a profit on the capital invested.

We all know that in order to have good food we need good produce, cooked to the exact right time and to mix the products with compatible elements so as to bring out their taste and finally their perfect presentation.

Consumer demands and tastes vary with time. The skilful restaurant owner should try to anticipate the consumer demands.

Signature Cuisine (Cozinha de Autor) has been very much discussed. I wonder whether in order to have personality and a soul, a restaurant needs this type of cuisine? It seems to me that the most important thing is to know the regularity in relation to the quality of each restaurant.

Nouvelle Cuisine received a lot of coverage and was widely discussed, and so often it was not well accepted. But how many people really tried to evolve in the Nouvelle Cuisine? If we carefully analyse its main objectives we can see where it failed. What were the guidelines for this New Cuisine?  Let us begin with the products. They were top quality and used depending on the market (season of the best flavours), which implied regular visits to the supply places. Then there were the cooking techniques, usually reducing the cooking time, but taking into consideration that each product had its cooking time. Unnecessary side plates were avoided and so were heavy sauces. There was an emphasis to value regional cooking and obtain inspiration from it.

The number of dishes on the menu was reduced. The great solution is to have fewer options, but better quality.

Other elements were considered when comprising a menu. There was concern with the food value taking the diet component into consideration. It was also important to be aware of new techniques which emerged, constantly innovating, but feeling secure about it. That is to say, innovation with consistency and knowing what one was doing.

Nowadays we find more and more restaurants where people go because they know who the Kitchen Chef is. Or else if it is known that the Michelin Guide has awarded an extra star.  Restaurants in Portugal have not always been fairly judged. However, the visibility is certainly greater and the restaurant will proudly want to increase the number of stars.

What about the recruiting of staff?  What has Portugal done about training people?

It seems to me that it is high time to think about the cooking programmes that are taught. Schools should concentrate more on the products and culinary techniques than on learning the recipes.

A further question concerning Portugal is what future is there for the National Gastronomy Commission?

We acknowledge the merit of some tourism Regions and some Confrarias (Fraternity Guilds).

Why not launch a permanent page in this magazine, to discuss the evolution of Portuguese Cuisine faced with the new challenges?

It is by no means compulsory to learn about the hot foams and jellies

It is however, compulsory to do better and to keep up with the times.

© Virgílio Nogueiro Gomes

Photo: © Adriana Freire