We only really get to know people when we learn to live their daily life and can understand how their habits came about. Therefore, using this rationale and understanding that cooking (or to put it in a more elite way, gastronomy) is part of the people’s heritage. More so because the way these eating habits came about is related to the social standing, historical decisions and accidents of Nature.

Madeira has always been considered a paradise.  It is no wonder that since the Fifteenth century even the discoverers became so enthusiastic about Madeira due to the enchanting views and the moderate climate there.

Madeira was the first place where the use of sugar was promoted. Until then sugar was a rare commodity, very expensive and imported from the East. Prince Henry of Portugal introduced the cultivation of sugar cane and the first sugar plant was established in Madeira, XV century. The first sugar plant was established in Brazil only a century later.

In fact, sugar is the product that most changed the Portuguese eating habits and traditions, as opposed to what is said about the spices being more important. Spices were used as an international exchange coin and could be seen only at the tables of the very rich.

However, the people from Madeira knew how to make the most of the difficulties that Nature had to offer. They combated the accidental terrain by making artificial plateaus and filling them with productive soil. They solved the water and irrigation problem by creating canals that would take water from the riverside to the productive planting areas.

Therefore, when visiting Madeira be sure to not only visit Funchal, but to also visit the coastal and inland areas. In order to get to know this area one has to look for lumpfish which has become a tradition, preferably in Câmara de Lobos, and eat them grilled or mixed with rice.

It is an unforgettable adventure to go along the sea coast and discover and taste the local delicacies served as snacks.

Obviously fishing determined the food attraction.

Wherever there are fishermen, there are always wonderful surprises. Regarding Madeira and where fish are concerned there are two well-known symbols that have to be referred to; the tuna and the (black) swordfish. Tuna can be eaten grilled, escabeche, salted and as steaks. Any of these options are a delight. However, I would like to mention salpresado which came about with the need to use the whole fish and this was done using a primitive technique of preserving it efficiently by using salt. As for the swordfish, although it is commonly presented in filets, grilled, with onion stew or baked in the oven, there are endless other ways of cooking it.

We cannot write about fish without referring to a dish that came about because of fishing, known as the caldeirada (fish stew)

This is a rich dish because of the variety of fish used according to the season of the year and also according to whatever is pulled up in the fishnets. I will not mention all the different fish that are found in Madeira because I am sure that soon you will want to discover the place yourself and whet your appetite.

As for the meat there, if there is not the same usual variety, there is certainly the ability to cook everything extremely well. The barbecue skewers are unique. Bay leaf skewers are always used. Then we have the meat marinated in wine and garlic (vinha d’alhos) or a pot roast. Cozido a Portuguesa (boiled meat with vegetables) can even be found here, but cooked the Madeira style. They use only pork and vegetables grown on the island, sweet potato and squash. There is a North African influence of cuscus as a side plate.

Surprisingly, sweet corn appears as a side plate probably originating after the discovery of the Americas. Sometimes the corn is boiled. It is mainly fried and is a “must have” for anyone who is trying to understand these eating habits.

However, it is the sweets that most enchant us in Madeira.

We have already mentioned the importance of sugar in this region. It is natural that Madeira should make the most of this product.  It becomes even more fascinating when we see how they use locally grown fruit to make delicious desserts. From plums, passion fruit, breadfruit, figs, pineapples, bananas, papayas, dates, everything is grown here! Skilful hands as a result of centuries experience and perfection make unforgettable desserts in this marvelous place. We will only refer to the curious recipe of the bolo de mel (honey cake) which originated out of the curiosity of the use of new products (up to the sixteenth century these ingredients were used only for medicinal purposes) an excellent combination of products that has lasted till today. The honey cake is a compliment to Nature. It is made of flour, walnuts, almonds, cider, anis seed, cloves of India, powdered pepper, cinnamon, sugar, Madeira wine …And of course we cannot fail to mention that glorious nectar of Madeira which is its generous wine. It has gone beyond their borders and is used in prestigious international cooking recipes.

There is no need to know any more about Madeira. The only way to really understand the country and to feel satisfied is to go to Madeira and discover it yourself.

And then return there.

© Virgílio Nogueiro Gomes

© Photo by Adriana Freire

Published in the Atlantis magazine nº 6 Nov/Dec. 1997