I’m not a cinema expert. I simply like to watch movies out of pleasure. I avoid films with explicit violence or psychologically violent acts. I no longer go to the cinemas where there is the craze of popcorn and the smell that lingers on. Another reason for not going to those cinemas is that the youngsters are rude and talk aloud or make a noise while they kiss one another. I am now at a stage where I am reconciling with some cinemas, those that no longer have the smell of popcorn and others that are comfortable and disciplined.
When I enjoy a film, I watch it several times at home. Every time I watch the film again, I learn to find new details which had been overlooked the first time. One of these details is the gastronomic component of the films. Another is the music component. At home, whenever possible, I watch the films in their original language and only look at the subtitles when I have some difficulty in understanding what is being said.
But, going back to the subject of interest, I will analyze the films that struck me the most because of the strength of the gastronomic message. I will only focus on films that were shown in Portuguese cinemas, and therefore have subtitles. And also the films available in DVD form. Of course this chronicle of mine isn’t an inventory on all the films with a gastronomic theme. I will mention only a few. And some that, only by watching them a second time, I discovered the food and beverage element in them. I doubt that some of the film directors even thought of the scenes as such. Obviously there are films like “Vatel” or “Like Water for Chocolate” where there was concern and a strong focus on those elements. I will try to quote the films in a chronological order of action.
Frederico Fellini directed a spectacular film, “Sattiricon”, in 1972 that provoked a certain commotion. He presented a Roman society in decadence during the reign of Emperor Nero. The intrigues and disputes were alternated with scenes of daily life and also the banquets that they held which showed life in society. Although the banquets are not the focal point, there they are and they are part of the details that we sometimes only see after they are pointed out to us. We shouldn’t be surprised at the variety of food products at that time. That food was already available, but only reserved for the upper classes. To be “a waiter” or serve the food at that time was certainly not an easy task…!
Let us now fly to 1671. The film “Vatel” directed by Roland Joffe, with Gerard Depardieu, Uma Thurman and Tim Roth as actors, takes us to the visit of the court of Louis the XIV that took place at the palace of Prince de Conde. The Prince’s manager, Vatel, was famous for his cooking and his ability to organize great parties (feasts). The king himself wanted to have him at his service. During this visit, the Prince hoped to convince the King to hire him as chief of the army, and in so doing he would be able to recover financially, since he was on the brink of bankruptcy. Vatel, therefore, was faced with an extremely important mission…! It is worth watching the parties/banquets several times so as to remember all the details. Besides the quality of the food, the spectacular way in which it was served was dazzling. It almost looks like a play in the theatre. It was superb.
Another enchanting film was “Babette’s Party” (La Fete de Babette) It was awarded an Oscar for the best foreign film. It was directed by Gabriel Axel in 1987, based on a book with the same title, by Karen Blixen, who also used the literary name Isak Dinesen. It is about a French woman who flees and hides on the Norwegian coast and works for two old ladies. Before she fled France, she had bought a lottery ticket and years later she heard she had won and received the corresponding prize. Although the film seems slow and little action takes place, the famous party that Babette offers at the end to thank them for the hospitality reveals the height of what one can imagine in terms of a great banquet. Babette imports some delicacies and wines from France. The guests feel as if they are continuously sinning. This delightful sin was acknowledged later. The gastronomic refinement is tops. The detailed description of this meal and the wines that go with it become a hymn to the French cuisine. This makes us turn green with envy in this day and age. According to “Newsweek” this film shows an “irresistible mixture of ironic humor and great humanity”. The final meal could easily be a discussion test between gastronomes and an amusing example for the hotel schools to study.
In 1992, Alfonso Arau directed a film “Como Agua para Chocolate” (Like Water for Chocolate), that has become a classic. It is based on a book with the same name, written by Laura Esquivel. It is about the drama of families in the provinces. They are complicated families and ruled by strict conventions. The film shows a family drama where the main character is a victim of the kitchen, and who almost becomes a legend. The story takes place in Mexico, a country where chocolate is considered a food of the gods. In Mexico one dilutes chocolate in water and not milk. And the expression “to be water for chocolate” means that the person is sexually excited. Tita, the main character cooks and transforms food. She reaches one of the highest moments when she bakes her sister’s wedding cake. Her sister is to marry the man that she herself is in love with. Her tears are mixed with the cake dough and all those that eat the cake are affected by her sadness. She also uses a great amount of honey, garlic, pepper, corn and red rose petals that….enchant and do marvels.
In 2007, Pedro Almodovar toasts us with an incredible story about women in his film Volver (Return) His peculiar way of focusing on details of daily life creates consecutive enthusiasm: the identity of the Spanish people. Three generations of women who show solidarity for each others problems, after a mortal crime has taken place. In the search for a solution, and money being one of the solutions, Raimunda – the main character, played by the great Penelope Cruz, the opportunity comes up to run a restaurant on a temporary basis. Since they are not professionals, they prepare the food they learned to cook at home, in a strict way and involve their entire past feminine heritage. Simple food cooked in a special way. They achieve quality by keeping things simple. As an example there is the “Potato Tortilla”, “Mojitos” and “Milk Pudding” The film has a complex plot, but the excellent director gives it an ironic meaning, and there is constant humor.
There is also a recent film, “The secret of Cuscuz” by Abdellatif Kechiche, with a different spirit from all the previous ones. One does not learn to cook in this film, and even the cuscus recipe seems like an illustration for a family story. The film is a contemporary story that reflects the forever difficult integration of emigrants and as for the food; it serves to restore the longing for certain situations. The story is about a father who tries to keep his family united. He faces many adversities and as a final effort that leads to a lifelong dream: to open a restaurant where cuscus will be the specialty. This film was awarded the prize for the best film with no scenarios; with a low budget, it was all filmed with real scenes. Cuscuz is a transversal element that unites the family and is the reason for the socializing at the table. The film is realistic and has a deep humanity message and reveals how group attitude has to pep everyone up and if one fails, the whole project can be doomed to fail. We are reminded of the lack of union in families sitting at the table together.
The commentator of Expresso Newspaper, Vasco Baptista Marques, wrote: “A magnificent Kechiche to watch with your five senses”, or Sergio Santos from Timeout Magazine: “The belly dancing of Hafsia Herzi, near the end, instantly became part of the cinema eroticism”.  Another good reason to watch the film!
There are many more films to watch over and over. Without trying to be too tiring, I remember: “A Grande Farra”, “Chocolat”, “Preciosa Iguaria”, Tampopo”, “As Ferias da Minha Vida”, “Marie Antoinette”, “A Grande Noite”, “Age of Innocence”, “Ratatouille, and so many others.
It is true that I have not written about Portuguese films. I would like to point out the DVD called “Gestos dos Sabores” (Gestures of Tastes) produced by the Associacao As Idades dos Sabores (Association of the Taste Ages) where traditional Portuguese traditions are registered before they get lost. Cinema therefore helps us to keep traditions. In a cooking recipe there is an element that cannot be described in writing and that is how to make it: the gestures.
Bon Apetit for Cinema
© Virgilio Nogueiro Gomes